Central AC Efficiency
SEER (Seasonal Energy-Efficiency Rating) is a comparative indicator of an air conditioner's efficiency. The typical central air conditioning system of the early 1990s had a SEER of about 6. It rose to 10 early in this decade. All central air conditioners manufactured since January 23, 2006 must have a SEER of 13 or higher. Older unsold units were grandfathered under this government regulation. At this point, if any of those units are still available, they represent false economy. Guides that recommend them as a budget alternative are out of date. Current central AC units have SEER ratings that range from 13 to 23. The rating can be easily understood as a percentage. For instance, a 14 SEER air conditioner is 40 percent more efficient than a 10 SEER air conditioner.
Capacity and efficiency are major factors in the price of an air conditioner. A more efficient unit costs less to operate. We found worksheets for estimating how much, but electricity prices throughout the United States change often and usually rise. If you currently have gas or oil heat and a central air conditioner, you can compare your summer and winter electric bills to get an idea of how much more electricity you use during the summer.
Best Central AirExperts say the average life of a central air conditioner is 15 to 20 years. If yours is that old, they say the break-even period is short if you replace it because your new system will be much more efficient by default. When announcing the current SEER standard, Energy Secretary Samuel Bodman asserted, "Homeowners who choose to buy more energy-efficient air conditioning systems will realize significant savings in their energy bills and greatly reduce their energy use." The Rocky Mountain Institute encourages, "Buy a new air conditioner if your existing model is more than ten years-old, as such models are often only half as efficient as contemporary models."
The value of efficiency much beyond 13 SEER is somewhat controversial. Government and environmental organizations advocate for the highest efficiency you can afford. The American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE) recommends SEER of at least 14.5. That meets the ENERGY STAR standard. The professionals at AllExperts.com disagree about the value of high-efficiency air conditioners. Some point out that more expensive units may have other virtues, such as a longer warranty. The majority of experts believe that a 13 SEER air conditioner is the best value for most people (but see the Rebates section below). If you can afford greater efficiency, however, you will use less electricity and make a contribution to the environment, but you may not recoup the extra cost in energy savings. Be aware that experts say an air conditioner must be connected to an appropriate coil to achieve the published SEER specification.
Air conditioner sizing is crucial
Contractors and government agencies say the biggest mistake consumers make when buying air conditioners is getting a unit with too much capacity. An unscrupulous contractor will sell you an air conditioner with too much capacity because it costs more, but the bigger disadvantage occurs once you own it. It will frequently cycle on and off. This is inefficient and expensive. Veteran contractor Fred Weldin adds, "It's much better for comfort and for the equipment to have the compressor operating relatively continuously in the worst weather."
Experts say a "Manual J" calculation is essential for determining the appropriate capacity. Manual J, published by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA), is a method for calculating the design cooling load and correct system size. Do not accept bids over the phone or the Internet. A contractor must measure rooms, windows and insulation levels to perform a Manual J load calculation. A contractor should review the load calculation with you. Note that building codes in many jurisdictions require Manual J calculations.
Air Conditioning Capacity is measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units). The specification is most commonly expressed in tons. Sometimes you'll see BTUs per hour (a ton equals 12,000 BTUs per hour). A range of two to five tons is typical for a house.
Your new heating and cooling system should be a custom fit for your home. Sizing and a handful of other installation practices can dramatically affect how well your new equipment will deliver comfort and savings. Expect to pay a little more for a good contractor who follows these practices.
Calculate the size of equipment
Seal and insulate ducts in attics and crawlspaces
Check and correct air flow
Proper refrigerant charging
Equipment placement
Calculate the size of equipment
For starters your new furnace, boiler, heat pump or air conditioner should be sized to fit your home. You can request a copy of the design load calculation used to determine the right size of equipment for your home. A good contractor will not size your equipment solely on the square footage of your house or assume that your existing equipment was sized properly in the first place. Proper equipment sizing is based your home's heat loss during cold weather and heat gains during warm weather. For more information about sizing use the new Central Air Conditioner Sizing Tutorial.
To complete the design load calculation the contractor will need to take measurements during the initial visit to your home and ask you some questions. The calculation is usually done using software, and should be based on professional guidelines such as Manual J from the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) or similar method. Oversized equipment can cause reduced comfort and excessive "air" noise. Oversizing will shorten the life of the equipment by causing it to cycle on and off more frequently than a properly-sized unit. Undersized equipment, with airflow that is too low, can reduce the efficiency of the air distribution and accelerate wear on system components, leading to earlier failure.
After the design load calculation is completed, ducts, supply registers, and return grilles can be sized and selected using professional guidelines in ACCA's Manual D or similar method.
Seal and insulate ducts in attics and crawlspaces
If you’re installing a central air conditioner, furnace or heat pump ask your contractor about the condition of your air ducts. A good contractor should be able to test your air ducts to identify and seal leaks.
Duct sealing should be done by a professional using mastic, metal-backed tape or aerosol-based sealing.
In some instances, your contractor may advise you that it is necessary to replace or add ducts. If there are insufficient supply registers or return air grilles in your home, it may be necessary to install additional ducts to accommodate the need for registers or grilles. When possible ducts should be located within conditioned space. If the ducts must be in unconditioned space (attic or crawlspace) they should be insulated.
Check and correct airflow
For central air conditioners, furnaces or heat pumps there is an optimal air flow for comfort and savings.
If airflow is too high, duct leakage increases and the temperature at the register is not sufficient for optimal home comfort.
If airflow is too low, distribution efficiency drops and accelerates the wear on system components leading to premature failure.
A good contractor will test the air flow of your heating and cooling system and make adjustments for optimal performance. Typically, testing and adjustments should be done after duct leakage repairs have been completed.
Proper refrigerant charging
If your are installing a new central air conditioner or heat pump you should know that recent field studies suggest that approximately 75% of installed cooling equipment may have incorrect amount of refrigerant. Incorrect refrigerant level can lower efficiency by 5 to 20% and can ultimately cause premature component failure, resulting in costly repairs that could have been prevented. A good contractor will use one of three methods, recommended by equipment manufacturers, to verify the correct refrigerant level. These methods include super-heat, sub-cooling, or weigh. Ask your contractor how they verify the refrigerant level is correct.
In addition, you should know that since 1992, in order to protect the earth's atmosphere (ozone layer), all technicians must be certified to handle refrigerant. Ask them to show you proof of refrigerant handling certification.
Equipment placement
Placement of new equipment is unique for every home, but a good contractor should follow manufacturer's installation instructions for best results. For example, Indoor equipment should be installed in conditioned space, or a space that is well insulated. The Outdoor compressors should be placed out of the sun and kept free of debris. Equipment should be installed in an accessible area for easy maintenance. Allow plenty of room for free airflow on all sides of the equipment. Thermostats should be placed away from direct sunlight, drafts, doorways, skylights and windows.
Central air conditioner prices and warranties
Central air conditioners are not normally sold directly to consumers. They must be installed by licensed contractors. Pricing is a package deal, which includes the air conditioner, ductwork, labor, permits and whatever else is needed for your installation. Prices vary radically, depending on both the quality (or efficiency) of the air conditioner and how much labor is needed. Installation and related costs are usually going to cost more than the air conditioner itself.
Consumer Reports says, "If you're replacing an old central-air system, you can expect to pay around $3,000 for the equipment. If you need ductwork installed expect to pay $6,000 or more." FurnaceCompare.com claims the range is $4,000 to $8,000 (and up). The Rocky Mountain Institute says, "Central air conditioners typically cost between $3,000 and $7,000, including installation." At least one contractor on AllExperts.com claims to charge considerably less.
Best Central AirExpect to pay less for a Goodman (Goodman, Janitrol and Amana brands) air conditioner than other brands. Contractors say they are cheaper to buy. Installation costs may also be lower because contractors say that Goodman is less selective about its authorized installers than other manufacturers are. If you buy one of the Goodman brands, some critics indicate that you are more likely to get high-quality installation if you choose a contractor that also sells a more expensive brand, such as American Standard, Carrier, Bryant, Trane or Lennox.
Manufacturers themselves don't reveal estimated installed costs. Experts agree that prices vary by region, and possibly even within a region. If you live in a development where multiple houses have the same floor plan, your neighbors may be the most accurate guide to good pricing. Make sure bids include all costs, including any government fees (such as permits) and disposal of the old unit.
Experts estimate that within a product line of otherwise identical central air conditioners, the price difference between a 13 SEER model and a 16 SEER model is about $500.
Product quality may not have a lot to do with air conditioner prices. Jim Barnhart, an HVAC contractor with 50 years experience, maintains "As far as quality and brand go many expensive big name brands are the same as an economical cheap priced unit, even made on the same assembly line." That doesn't mean you receive no benefit for paying more. We cover a number of those benefits below. A higher price may also net a better warranty.
Most central air conditioners have ten-year limited warranties on the compressor and five-year limited warranties on all other parts. Judging from many owner posts in forums, manufacturers do not cover labor costs. Contractors usually offer one-year warranties on the installation. Some offer lifetime warranties as a marketing tool.
Both manufacturers and contractors offer a variety of warranty and service options. Carrier, for example, offers transferable warranties on your choice of parts, labor or both. Installers usually offer service contracts. Bryant recommends them, noting that annual maintenance is necessary for any central-air system. The guarantee of work allows contractors to discount per-service prices with a package deal. However, if you don't plan to stay in your home indefinitely, an extended service contract might not pay off.
Choosing a Contractor
Consumer magazines and guides, government agencies and industry experts agree that choosing the contractor is the most important part of a buying a new central air conditioner. Contractors sell a limited selection of brands, often just one. The upside of that is that they may not have a financial incentive to promote a particular brand.
If you don't already have referrals for several contractors from neighbors, friends or relatives, the starting points are your local utilities and local or state government. Some utilities and government agencies certify HVAC contractors or maintain a referral list. Qualifications vary by utility and jurisdiction.
AC Units If you're considering buying an air conditioner from a big-box store such as Lowe's, find out how the store/chain screens its installers and which party is responsible for the installation warranty. We didn't find any sources that particularly recommend buying from a big-box store, and the chains do not advertise or sell central air conditioners on their websites.
Experts agree that referrals and references are the most important selection criterion. They recommend calling references. If you do that, ask for references in your neighborhood. You can check several neutral resources to identify a public record of testimonials and complaints. Those include the Better Business Bureau, Angie's List and regional professional associations (such as a home builders' association). Contractors should be licensed (if your state does that), bonded and insured.
Make sure that the installer is certified by the North American Technician Excellence association (NATE), the most prominent certification organization; you can also check manufacturers' websites for premium installers who have met certain requirements and received additional training from the manufacturer.
When you've narrowed your choices, contractors mention several other important screening tools. Ask how long the company has been in business. Find out how many years of experience their technicians have, and how many technicians they have. An average of five to ten years experience is recommended.
Several contractors stress post-sale considerations. These are critical if you choose to buy a service contract, but also potentially important if you have a warranted hardware or installation problem. Some contractors offer some form of 24-hour service. Some will even come to your house in the middle of the night (but you'll pay a premium for that). Many contractors promise same-day service for an emergency.
Experts say you should solicit estimates from three contractors. Each contractor should inspect your current system, if any. Use the ACCA "Quality Installation Checklist" to evaluate them. This worksheet will also help you compare each contractor's bid with the quantity and quality of service you will get. It contains detailed instructions for consumers, and covers the questions you should ask contractors. ACCA is one of several organizations that provide search-by-zip-code directories of contractors on their websites. Others are mentioned in the ConsumerSearch Best Research and All Reviews sections
Here's what experts say to look for when buying a central air conditioner:
•Your contractor will determine the correct size by estimating your cooling load, which is specified in either British Thermal Units (BTUs) per hour or tons. (12,000 BTU/hr is equivalent to one ton.) Cooling load is computed based on the size of your house, the climate in your area, and other factors such as shade, glass area and ventilation. If your air conditioner is undersized, it won't cool effectively. But if it's oversized, it will cool in short blasts and then turn off. This increases temperature variability and doesn't reduce humidity as effectively. Make sure your contractor does a Manual J cooling-load calculation, however, and not just a rule-of-thumb estimate based on house size.
•Central air conditioners with high SEER specifications cost more to buy and less to operate. Be sure to find out about local utility and government rebates. They may offset all or most of the cost difference between a 13 SEER air conditioner and a high-efficiency model.
•Scroll compressors have fewer moving parts than the older, reciprocating compressors, and are more reliable. Scroll compressors are also quieter and more efficient. However, because of their smaller volume, they are less forgiving if liquid refrigerant flooding should occur due to overcharging of the system. Compressors are the most expensive components in air conditioners, but most air conditioners have ten-year limited warranties. Reciprocating compressors are still used in some budget models, but are no longer common.
•Some cheaper models still use R-22 refrigerant (often called Freon). Freon damages the atmosphere's ozone layer and is being phased out. R-22 units will not be manufactured after 2009 and the refrigerant will eventually no longer be available. Most air conditioners now use R-410A, which in the short run is more expensive.
•Look for sound-dampening features such as vibration isolation for the compressor and insulation. Also, louvers or heavy-duty wire grids and caps protect the unit from weather and impacts from sports or lawn equipment. If noise concerns you, ask prospective contractors for the decibel ratings of the units they are proposing.
•A ten-year warranty on the compressor and five years on other parts is typical. Some models come with a better warranty. A variety of extended service plans are optional.
•Check that the contractor meets your locality's licensing requirements, and is certified to handle refrigerants. The contractor should also be bonded and insured against liability. Hire a technician who is certified by one of the two national programs (Air Conditioning Contractors of America or North American Technical Excellence).
•Be aware that the cost will vary significantly depending on what systems, if any, already exist in your home. If you have no ductwork, or your ductwork is old and leaky and needs replacement, the project cost will be at least twice as much more than what you'll pay if a new air conditioner can be connected to the existing ductwork.
•Consider a two-stage air conditioner for maximum comfort and efficiency. These high-end units use two compressors and fans. They cost about 30 percent more than a single-stage air conditioner.
•You or the contractor will probably need to get a permit. Local building departments often require permits for HVAC installation work. Home improvement columnist Paul Bianchina explains, "In general, you need a permit to expand or structurally alter your home or any of its wiring, plumbing, or mechanical systems."
A good contractor will evaluate your entire HVAC system and make appropriate recommendations, starting with whether to repair or replace an existing air conditioner. House and duct insulation, window upgrades and other energy efficiency improvements could make a bigger difference than a new air conditioner. The ACEEE, GreenGuide.com, Flex Your Power, Sensible Home (Dulley.com) and the Rocky Mountain Institute all have guides and suggestions.
Alex Walter, an HVAC contractor in Aurora, Colorado, suggests that home buyers bring in an HVAC contractor to inspect heating and cooling systems in addition to hiring a general inspector.
No reviewer rates air conditioners or air conditioner brands. The consensus among contractors and other experts appears to be that all brands are essentially the same. Of course, some tout the brands they sell, but in neutral Internet forums where they aren't going to make a sale, many candidly express no brand preferences and insist that installation quality is more important than hardware quality.
About Refrigerants
R-410 is the best air conditioner refrigerant
The cooling refrigerant is also an environmental and long-term consideration. R-22 (best known to the public as Freon, a DuPont product) is being phased out due to international accords. It contains hydro-chlorofluorocarbons that damage the ozone layer. A manufacturing by-product contributes to global warming. Until January 1, 2010, you can legally buy a new air conditioner that uses R-22. The EPA says that consumers who make that choice will still be able to buy replacement R-22 coolant until 2020.
Most central air conditioners now use R-410 instead, also known as Puron (a trade name of the Bryant corporation), which is less harmful to the environment. Some of the cheaper central AC units in most manufacturers' lines still use R-22, and while using R-22 may be less expensive in the short run, you might face premature repair or replacement issues. While R-22 may be produced for servicing existing equipment, manufacturers could choose to discontinue it. At best, diminished supplies will result in higher prices. For those reasons, most experts and environment advocates say you should opt for a central air conditioner that uses R-410.
CONSUMER TIPS NO HEAT? It’s in the middle of a freezing cold night and your heating system has decided to take a break from keeping you warm. Before you call your heating contractor there are a few things that you should check yourself:
Be sure your thermostat is set on "On" and "Heat or Auto" (not on "cool" and "off")
Is the temperature set at least 3 degrees above current room temperature?
If your thermostat is electronic, have you checked your batteries?
Check Your Fuses and Breakers
If your home has breakers, check to see if any are tripped (if a breaker has been tripped it will be in a position that is between ON and OFF. Reset the breaker by turning all the way OFF, then back ON).
If your home has fuses, check to see if the fuse for the furnace is blown. If so, replace it with the SAME SIZE (don’t increase the size) fuse.
If you’ve checked all the above and your system still doesn’t work call your heating contractor.
For heat pump users
Getting ready for the winter months is import to your outside unit. When doing that final mowing of the lawn make sure that grass from the mower is blown away from the unit. Make sure that the outdoor unit is free of debris. Trim or remove shrubs or obstructions within one foot of the unit. Keep the snow accumulation off the outdoor unit — it will block the airflow and increase energy use if left on the unit.
Now is the time to prepare for the upcoming cold winter months. Here are some steps to help you get ready:
Check that your heating supply registers are clear of draperies and furniture
Test windows and doors for air tightness - adding weather stripping and caulking where necessary
Caulk holes where pipes, vents and wires lead outside
If purchasing a new furnace or heat pump, select one with a high efficiency rating
Schedule an annual heating system check-up with your heating contractor.
Did you know that lowering the room temperature at night and in daylight hours when no one is at home can save up to 35% off your heating bills? Check with your contractor about getting a programmable thermostat to help you achieve this savings.
Don't Forget Those Filters - change your filters once a month. As a good reminder - when you pay your gas or electric bill - use that as your trigger to remember to change your filter. A clean filter allows your unit to run more efficiently which causes less wear and tear on the equipment. Make sure that you install a replacement filter that is the same size as the original.
Also, remember to regularly check the smoke detectors in your house to make sure they are working. If your smoke detector runs on electricity, be sure you have a battery back up in case of a power failure. And keep fresh batteries installed with extras on hand.
In the Washington metro area (District, Maryland and Virginia) a heating contractor must be licensed. You, as a consumer, have a right to ask to see a copy of that license.
In Maryland, all heating and air conditioning contractors are required to have their license number on their trucks, proposals, and job tickets.
Be sure you’re dealing with a licensed contractor.
To borrow a phrase from the Syms Company© — "an educated consumer is our" member’s "best customer".
The following is a check list to reduce the risk of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning in your home:
Have your heating system "tuned up" by a qualified contractor to ensure it is in good working order.
Keep your natural gas equipment clean and free of dust, lint, newspapers, rags and other debris, which not only are fire hazards but also block equipment air intakes.
Make sure your home and utility room is adequately ventilated, particularly if you have insulated your home, had major renovations done or have enclosed your heating system.
Install CO detectors in your home near sleeping areas.
Ask your contractor or prospective contractor if they have NATE - North American Technician Excellence - certified technicians on staff. NATE is a national certification for the heating and air conditioning industry. It tests the knowledge of the technician.
Have a qualified contractor clean the outside condenser coil of your air conditioner once a year. Collected dirt and objects can block the flow of air and reduce operating efficiency.
Avoid placing lamps or television sets near your thermostat. Heat from these appliances is sensed by the thermostat and could cause the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.
Do not set your thermostat at a colder setting than normal. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling, and therefore, unnecessary expense.
When temperatures are high and the humidity is equally as high your air conditioning unit won't recover the temperature in your home like it normally does. It doesn't necessarily mean there's something wrong with your unit - the unit is working as hard as it can.
Should the unit still not recover the temperature in your home after the outside temperature and humidity have gone down then you might want to contact your contractor.
Vacation tip - if you're going on vacation, or going to be gone from your home for more than two days, you should set your thermostat to 80-85 degrees with the fan set on "auto."
Window units? Consider using an interior fan in conjunction with your window air conditioner to spread the cooled air more effectively through your home without greatly increasing your power use.
To help you keep cool during the summer high temperatures you can do just a few simple things:
Close drapes, blinds and shades during the day to keep out the sun (sunshine through windows can add heat to your home);
Use your oven and other heat-generating appliances in the early morning and late evening hours to keep your air conditioning from working too hard;
Use ceiling fans to increase your comfort level.
Air Returns
In addition to changing your filter every month (a good reminder trigger - when you pay your gas or electric bill - change your filter), regularly vacuum off the dust that gets trapped on the air return grille.
Have the duct system cleaned, as well as the furnace. Contractors use powerful vacuums and long hoses that can snake through a network of ducts to remove dust trapped at joints and bends.
Have your contractor install an electronic air cleaner. Cleaners are placed in ductwork close to the furnace and draw air through a grille of electrically charged plates that attract particles. Typical appliances remove more than 90 percent of dust, pollen, smoke and many other contaminants.
NO ELECTRICITY?
It is recommended, if you do not have electricity you should turn your thermostat to the off position and/or turn the switches to your heating equipment off.
By doing this, if the electricity short cycles when it comes back on, you will eliminate the chance of your unit blowing its compressor.
Humidifiers and Their Cleaning
You have to clean a humidifier periodically to clear mineral deposits and to disinfect the unit so that the water inside does not become contaminated. You should call your contractor to assist you
Central systems - annual disinfecting is adequate because their water supply is constantly replenished.
Portable units - change the water daily and clean the appliance every third day as direction by the manufacturer
Hiring a heating contractor?
Ask them:
Are you going to give me your quote in writing (on a printed form — not scratched out on a piece of plan paper)? This should outline what the contractor's, as well as the consumer's, responsibilities are.
Do you have the desire and ability to perform warranty service throughout the warranty period? Some contractors only install — they won't service the equipment.
Don't consider price only. Be sure that you are comparing "apples to apples" when considering more than one contractor; be sure they are quoting you on the same size unit and offering the same service.
Is your company licensed to do the work in my city, county, state? May I see a copy of those licenses?
Does your company employ certified CFC technicians? May I see a copy of their license (this is an federally (EPA) mandated license for technicians to handle refrigerant)?
Does your company employ NATE certified technicians? This is an industry certification and not required but does indicate that the company is interested in having knowledgeable technicians on staff.
Will you please provide references? Find out if other customers are satisfied.
If you smell natural gas:
Alert others and leave the area immediately
leave open any doors you pass through to help ventilate the area, but don't take time to open windows
do not operate any electrical switches, thermostats, or appliance controls, including telephones and flashlights; all these devices cause sparks
extinguish all open flames; do not use matches or lighters and do not attempt to light your appliances
after leaving the house/building, call 911 and ask the operator to call the gas company
do not allow contractors or others to dig or drill on your property unless they have checked with the local utility system to determine the location of buried pipes and cables
Natural gas is non-toxic, colorless, tasteless and odorless. However, an unpleasant odor is added to the gas so you will know there is natural gas escaping. Even if your home is not supplied with natural gas you need to know what to do to get out alive in the event you do detect its odor.
Humidity control for pianos
Seasonal and even daily changes in humidity cause wood parts to swell and shrink, affecting tuning stability and touch. Extreme swings in humidity can eventually cause wood to crack and glue joints to fail.
Very high humidity can even create condensation on metal parts such as strings, tuning pins, and hardware, eventually causing them to rust.
What can be done to minimize humidity problems? Use of a room humidifier during dry seasons will help somewhat. However, it is preferable to have a whole-house humidifier installed, with a humidistat to keep the humidity at a set level. A qualified heating contractor can do this.
In the Summer:
Set the thermostat at 78 degrees or higher. You pay extra for every degree below the recommended setting. Portable and ceiling fans cost pennies to operate and can help your home feel cooler at higher thermostat settings. Turn the fan switch on central cooling systems and room units to automatic (auto) instead of continuous (on). Provide exterior shading, such as awnings or solar screens, for windows exposed to direct sun. Arrange furniture so lamps or other heat-producing appliances are not close to the thermostat. Keep fresh air intake or exhaust vents on room air conditioners closed.
Your air conditioner blew its fuse? If the home electric supply is interrupted momentarily the compressor may not restart because of the high pressures still in the liquid line. Under those pressures the compressor is presenting a dead short to the breaker box and off it goes. Reset your breaker or replace the fuse. If this continues to happen - call your contractor.
Humidity control can be a problem during the summer months. To avoid excessive moisture that can breed mold and mildew consider the following:
Make sure the clothes dryer is vented to the outside;
Don't over water your house plants;
Dry clothes immediately after washing;
Use exhaust fans in your kitchen when cooking, and in the bath when bathing;
Ask your air conditioning contractor about getting a dehumidifier to help control the humidity
An oversized air conditioner does not mean cool comfort for you. It means higher first costs, higher electricity bills, and a home that’s uncomfortable to be in.
Oversized air conditioners run up your utility bill.
An oversized air conditioner can cover up other problems.
Oversized air conditioners cost more to buy and don’t last as long.
An oversized air conditioner makes your house clammy.
Oversized air conditioners are noisy.
Besure your contractor installs the correct size for your home.
When the technician arrives:
Does the technician have proper identification?
Are they in a clearly identified company vehicle?
Is the technician clean?
Did they arrive at the assigned time?
If you are in question don't hesitate to call the company to confirm the person at the door is representing their company.
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Q&A: Locating a Good Technician
Q: How do I find a good contractor/technician?
A: Ask friends and neighbors who they have used to repair their heating and air conditioning units. If they have used a contractor who employs certified technicians and received good service then that contractor
might be right for you. Look in the phone book for the NATE certified seal.
Q: Is the contractor’s technician NATE-certified? How do I know?
A: North American Technician Excellence (NATE) is a non-profit certification organization which works to raise the standard of excellence in the heating, ventilation and air conditioning industry nationwide.
Through testing, NATE ensures technicians have the knowledge they need to excel in today’s industry.
NATE’s Consumer-Contractor Connection web site allows consumers to locate contractors serving their area by telephone area code (for the widest possible selection) and by postal ZIP code.
Ask contractors you find on the NATE site to send a NATE certified technician, as sometimes the contractor may have both NATE-certified and uncertified technicians working for them.
Ask to see the technician’s credentials. NATE-certified technicians carry a card which is proof that they have taken and passed the necessary tests.
Many NATE-certified technicians wear the NATE patches on their shirts.
Q: What are the benefits of using a NATE-certified technician?
A: NATE-certified technicians have demonstrated their knowledge of today’s increasingly sophisticated heating and cooling systems by passing a nationally recognized test developed and supported by all segments of the heating, ventilation and air-conditioning industry.
Consumers can rest assured that with a NATE-certified technician, they are getting the best installation and service for maximum comfort and economy in their heating and cooling system. Better installation and service mean a longer life for your heating and cooling equipment and increased energy efficiency. Technicians who are NATE-certified know that NATE stands for excellence and quality service. To find out more about NATE you can visit the NATE Web site at www.natex.org or contact NATE at 1-877-420-NATE.
Q: Does the contractor/technician have a license?
A: You need to ask your contractor if a license is required from the city or state, and how the license was earned. Did the contractor and technician have to pass a comprehensive test, or just pay a fee to receive a piece of paper?
Q: Is the contractor/technician familiar with my brand of heating and cooling unit?
A: When contacting a heating, ventilation, air conditioning/refrigeration (HVAC/R) contractor, be sure to identify your system by name. HVAC/R contractors and technicians are familiar with most current heating and cooling units.
Q: Does the technician or the contractor have liability insurance to cover damage in my home?
A: Ask the contractor. A technician or their employer should carry adequate insurance that would cover any damage done to your home by accidents while they are servicing your heating and cooling unit.
For more information: Contact North American Technician Excellence (NATE) a not-for-profit organization that works to raise the standard of excellence in the heating, ventilation, air conditioning/refrigeration (HVAC/R) industry through technician testing. A NATE-certified technician is an individual who has demonstrated knowledge and technical skill in the installation and servicing of HVAC/R equipment.
Maintenance Checklist
Maintain your equipment to prevent future problems and unwanted costs. Keep your cooling and heating system at peak performance by having a contractor do annual pre-season check-ups. Contractors get busy once summer and winter come, so it's best to check the cooling system in the spring and the heating system in the fall. To remember, you might plan the check-ups around the time changes in the spring and fall.
A typical maintenance check-up should include the following.
Check thermostat settings to ensure the cooling and heating system keeps you comfortable when you are home and saves energy while you are away.
Tighten all electrical connections and measure voltage and current on motors. Faulty electrical connections can cause unsafe operation of your system and reduce the life of major components.
Lubricate all moving parts. Parts that lack lubrication cause friction in motors and increases the amount of electricity you use.
Check and inspect the condensate drain in your central air conditioner, furnace and/or heat pump (when in cooling mode). A plugged drain can cause water damage in the house and affect indoor humidity levels.
Check controls of the system to ensure proper and safe operation. Check the starting cycle of the equipment to assure the system starts, operates, and shuts off properly.
Cooling Specific
Clean evaporator and condenser air conditioning coils. Dirty coils reduce the system's ability to cool your home and cause the system to run longer, increasing energy costs and reducing the life of the equipment.
Check your central air conditioner's refrigerant level and adjust if necessary. Too much or too little refrigerant will make your system less efficient increasing energy costs and reducing the life of the equipment.
Clean and adjust blower components to provide proper system airflow for greater comfort levels. Airflow problems can reduce your system's efficiency by up to 15 percent.
Heating Specific
Check all gas (or oil) connections, gas pressure, burner combustion and heat exchanger. Improperly operating gas (or oil) connections are a fire hazard and can contribute to health problems. A dirty burner or cracked heat exchanger causes improper burner operation. Either can cause the equipment to operate less safely and efficiently.
Actions To Do Yourself
Inspect, clean, or change air filters once a month in your central air conditioner, furnace, and/or heat pump. Your contractor can show you how to do this. A dirty filter can increase energy costs and damage your equipment, leading to early failure.
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